Wednesday, October 3, 2012

Payesh


Photo: PayeshWe just celebrated my younger child's Annaprasan - first feeding.  The best description of this event is a Hindu version of a christening from the social perspective, though theologically it's completely different.  The event centers around food - it takes place when the baby is ready to start on solids.  The baby is fed a small portion of food, usually rice pudding or rice, and presented with a traditional Bengali meal (fried vegetables, vegetable curry, fish curry, lamb curry, rice, yogurt, and rice pudding).  The rice pudding, or payesh, is by far the most important dish.  Bengalis make and serve payesh for all auspicious occasions.  We also really like the word auspicious.  Typically payesh is flavored with saffron and rosewater, and contains sultanas and pistachios.  However, since Beatrix Amiya (hereinafter referred to as BeaABH) is only five month's old, I wasn't about to include nuts or other add ins.  
It might make me a terrible Bengali, but I really do not care for payesh.  Its mostly a textural thing - generally too soupy and the rice grains come as an unwelcome surprise.  I also hate cooked raisins with a passion.  In my version of payesh, which I'm sure can be criticized as nontraditional, the rice is cooked in a half-and-half mixture, the liquid a bit reduced, so it comes out creamier.  The rice is also cooked so it melts into the creamy mixture.  The pudding is thickened by the starch coming off the rice.  I do a number of other things wrong, like browning the butter rather than making or using ghee, and fiddling with the temperature since I don't have the knack to push the limits and avoid burning.

Nina's version of payesh
Makes 6-8 servings, depending on how much you like the stuff

Ingredients:
1/2 cup basmati rice
1 tablespoon unsalted butter (preferably European-style high fat butter)
2 cups heavy cream
2 cups whole milk
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup sugar
2-4 teaspoons rose water
6-8 threads saffron
2 green cardamom pods

Method:
Rinse basmati rice several times in cold water - place rice in bowl, flood with water, agitate with your hand, drain, rinse, repeat until agitating the rice in the water does not produce cloudy water.
Brown butter over medium heat.  
Whisk together heavy cream, milk, salt, sugar, rose water, and saffron.  Crack cardamom pods slightly and add.  Set aside.
Add rice to butter.  Saute rice in butter, stirring regularly, for 3 minutes.
Pour in cream mixture.
Increase heat to medium high.
Stirring constantly, bring pot to a boil.  Reduce heat and stir.  Try to keep mixture just under the boiling point, stirring constantly, until the rice is cooked.  It will take about 20 minutes.  Do not let this burn - if it does, toss it and start again.
Cool and serve.


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